The Shire in the North (1)

Finally, I saved enough to get to Batanes, after much agonizing over the airfare prices (P9k++!). I booked it just in time for my birthday because that's the only reason I can justify the splurging. I think the reason most people do not reach this place is that the cost of going there is about the same as taking a vacation abroad, if not more.  But I'm telling you now, every cent you spend for a Batanes trip is going to be worth it. 

The Shire! The Shire!

Day 1

I joined a tour because I think it's the only way I can make the most of my three full-day stay in Batanes. Our very capable (and dashing!) guide, Ryan Cardona, picked us up at our lodging house just in time for lunch. Ryan is the first person that comes up from your Google search for a Batanes guide, so I know we're in very good hands. Lunch was at Amboy Hometel, and I feasted on Ivatan dishes that to my [carnivorous] mouth tasted like meat, but are actually plants. Fine, vegetables. 

The tour officially started with a visit to the Tukon Chapel, which to my amazement is only a few years old (built in 2007 if I remember right). I suppose structures made of stone always give you that impression of antiquity.

A girl from my tour group injured herself in the Japanese tunnel. Nothing serious, slipped on the steps and scraped herself raw. Nothing that would require getting airlifted out of Basco. And she was extra-cautious when we got to the famous Valugan boulder beach. 

The huge boulders are volcanic rocks spewed out by nearby Mt. Iraya, and smoothened over time by sea waves.

We saw this picture-perfect family, the handsome dad teaching their adorable daughter to fly a kite, while the very attractive mother looks on. They look so beautiful, they fit right in a Batanes scenery. And I immediately felt ugly and out of place. 

Had to crop attractive mom because she was looking straight at the camera...and I did not exactly ask for their permission to post their pics. 

We got a chance to visit Fundacion Pacita, where the well-heeled of our society stay when in Batanes. While planning for this trip, I had sleepless nights deciding if I should get Fundacion, because it is my birthday afterall, and if I'm gonna splurge, why not go all the way, right? But no, even my kind of "splurging" cannot reach the heights of Fundacion. Maybe next time, after I sell one of my kidneys or something.  

The place is heaven. Artworks everywhere, and rooms with balcony opening to the most amazing view of rolling hills. Kidney-worthy, yes. But I do not regret it now, because later, I would surprisingly bond with V and H, fellow travelers staying on my lodging house. Imagine that, anti-social me voluntarily getting chummy with strangers. It must be the air in Batanes. 

Day 2

It's my birthday! We got up early for the trip to Sabtang island. Ryan said the waters are relatively calm.  The rule on the boat is First In, Last Out, so if you're trying to stay away from the engine fumes as advised by some bloggers, try to get loaded in last. We managed to sit in front, where the motorbikes are and where there's no more roof. 

Disembarking from the faluwa, at Sabtang port.

We met Fr. Danny (informally), the jolly priest of Sabtang who welcomed everyone on board by passing biscuits around, and who unsuccessfully tried to cajole the church choir traveling with us to sing to placate our nerves.

"Sweet Caroline,  good times never seem so good..."

Like Ryan said, the waters were fine. And yet I learned later that a few people actually got sick. The highlight of my trip, however, were the dolphins. I've never seen dolphins in open-sea that close. Fr. Danny said he's been making the trips from Ivana to Sabtang for several years now and he's only seen dolphins twice. Must be because it's my birthday (bwahaha).

At the Sabtang port, Ryan made us register at the tourist center, and then told us to wait for our transport. He said, "Okay sayo topload, Grace?"And I thought he meant that there will be people up to the roof of the car, so it's gonna be crowded, and is that fine with me? Of course I said yes. When the car pulled up, it was empty. The guys immediately sat inside the car, while H and I, gamely climbed up to the top.  (What were we thinking, H??). No regrets, it turned out to be the most exhilarating experience of my life. 

Topload, rough road, and two screaming girls.

We were seated on a piece of plywood, with another spare tire. The road was rough and winding, cliffs and ravines all around, and every time palm leaves would strike our faces, H and I would scream. I held on to the metal bars so tight I thought they would get deformed. When we finally reached our first stop, I was amazed to find out I managed to take pictures while on top. 

Profile of Sleeping Beauty's face (top mountain range).  Guide says even her sleeping eye is quite pronounced.

Typical Ivatan stone houses, built to weather typhoons.

There are hills and hills everywhere, but unlike the temples of Angkor Wat, they don't get tiring after a while. It was chilly, windy, and rainy, and honestly, I'm surprised my pictures turned out this way. 

It doesn't look obvious from here, but it's a very steep climb to get down to those waters and swim.

The brooding and pensive V, always getting away from the crowd. 

Majestic everywhere.

We visited villages along the way, including Chavayan village, so far off they no longer get cellphone signals. And Ryan knows everyone. As in everyone.  He would pat kids in the head, call people by their name, enter people's home and make small talk. It's amazing. Why can't I be that kind of person? K asked if he plans on running for any elective seat soon. He just laughed.

Lunch was at Morong beach (I hope I'm getting the place right). It's well known for this limestone arch.  

Nakabuang Arch.

We got a chance to get our feet wet. I did not dare swim because the waves don't seem friendly. Like they're just waiting for someone they can claw back into their depth. 

Yes, my adventure shoes (water, terrain, whathaveyou) will be the main feature of this blog. Seriously,  I love these shoes.

We went back to Sabtang port to catch the boat back to Basco. There's the lighthouse we did not get to visit. Thank God for camera zoom.